Day 3 – Exploring Hilltop Villages and the Countryside

Usually our fall getaway trip is always planned at the last moment and we just let things happen. Over the years we have fallen into some great experiences. This year was no different when it came to last minute. Less than six weeks out, we found a great price on airline tickets from Baltimore to Nice and jumped on them. However, we did do a little pre-planning this trip with yesterday’s day trip and today’s adventure.

We have never used Tour by Locals on our previous trips, but while searching online for day trips one caught our eye. The Hilltop Villages & Countryside full day tour jumped out. The trip would take us to quaint small villages in the Alpes-Maritimes where medieval and renaissance towns became the residence of great artist and retreats for nobility.

It would be just the four of us and our guide, Mathilde. She grew up in Normandy and now resides in Nice introducing visitors to the beautiful region. Ironically, our neighbor back in Virginia is from a small town in Normandy. Yep the same town Mathilde grew up in and her family still resides. They did not know each other, but their family paths have crossed over the years. It is a small world indeed.

Mathilde picked us up promptly at 9:00 o’clock and we headed to our first stop Saint Paul Vence. Our chariot for the day was a very comfortable van, windows clean for viewing, and a water for each of us awaiting. Our journey began, and of course, it would be uphill for most of the day.  

Once again, we were happy not to be driving.  There was way too much beauty to pay attention to the winding roads.

Saint Paul Vence has a long relationship with artists. Names like Matisse, Braque, Calder, Miro, Picasso, and Chagall all have spent time in this walled town overlooking the sea. It was another beautiful day in the Cote d’ Azur and the warm light the artist came to this area to find surrounded us.

Mathilde dropped us at the entrance to the town and headed downhill to find a parking spot. We waited outside the walled town on the only flat spots we saw that day. The area was reserved for ball game pétanque, or boules as it called in St Paul.

Evidently, this location has been the site for many of an intense game and I am sure a Euro or two have been lost on this playing area. Even worst, there is a tradition that the loser must kiss the fanny at the completion of an unsuccessful match.  

Entering St Paul Vence there is a unique and prominent greeter to welcome you.

As we crossed under the stone arches it was if we just stepped back in time.

Yes, there were tourist shops, art galleries, and even a wine shop, but one got the impression very little had changed in hundreds of years.

The streets are cobblestone and very narrow. There are no vehicles to dodge as you explore and take in the many plants and flowers adorning the buildings. Many of the shops were just opening as we meandered in and out of alleys and squares.

Fresh water flows freely from the mountains and can be found in numerous places.

Reaching the end of the town, we climbed a viewing platform that overlooked the cemetery, and the sea.

Feeling adventurous, Tom walked along the wall to the next observation area, and everyone joined in. The Mediterranean was in the distance.

We were now committed to walking the wall, which is crazy since Tom is petrified of heights, and Sally comes in a close second with the same fear. We follow the path on the wall near to where we entered the town.

Peeking through holes once used by guards and taking in the village rooftops and enjoying the windows basking in sunlight.

After posing with a horse that even Tom liked, we headed to the parking lot. St Paul Vence had been quite a treat and a wonderful start of our day. With one hilltop village down we were pleased that Janet’s knee was holding up on the uneven surfaces and multiple ups and downs steps, ramps, and paths. We loaded up once again and began our journey to the medieval village of Tourrettes-sur-Loup.

Pulling into village, Mathilde explained the town was not connected to the nervous system disorder we know as Tourrette Syndrome. The disorder is named after a doctor from France, but one who lived in another region of France. Tourrettes-sur-Loup juts out high above the Loup River and is only 10 miles from the coast. Loup means wolf in French and these animals hunted these valleys for centuries. The medieval village is surrounded by a modern town of 2400 residents and tourism is the main industry.

Once again, no vehicles were allowed in this village, not that they would fit on most streets anyway. We walked the trail of violets and stopped at a fountain just to take it all in.

Tourrettes is called the “Violet Village” and is known for their craftsman. The streets are lined with small shops peddling wooden products, art, fabrics, and all things violet.

There were buildings and doors centuries old. Steps to navigate that led you to magical places to investigate.

The day just kept getting more beautiful and the sky bluer, and a strange noise could be heard.

The noise was coming from our stomachs and it was almost one o’clock. Our lunch reservations were in the next town on this adventure and there was a special stop along the way. Back in the car for a short ride to Gourdon through the Gorges du Loup. The walls of the gorge were up 2300 feet and, of course, we are still going higher and higher into the Alpes-Maritimes.

The hills grew around us and the horizon was harder and harder to find. The drop offs on the side of the road were increasing as we continued to climb. Passing bicyclists along the way to our destination we were impressed with their tenacity.  We were headed to the “Cascades Saut du Loup”!  (Translated loosely, “the leap of the Loup waterfalls”)

There was one waterfall along the way, but we could not stop because there was no place to park. We snapped shot out the window and just kept driving to Saut du Loup.

To get a viewing area which has the best views one must deposit 1-euro coin and pass through a turnstile gate. Mathilde explained that there had not been much rain this summer, so the falls were not as impressive as normal. Unfortunately, the sun was working against us for photos, but watching water drop from 300 feet above was spectacular.

There was no doubt about it now… it was lunch time! We arrived in Gourdon our last village with a little time to spare. Known as a gastronomic destination, as well as for perfume and crafts made there, Gourdon sits at the top of the mountain at an altitude of 2500 Feet. This medieval village is also dependent on tourism, and yes, there were some there. However, we never felt overrun with too many people at any of the villages we visited. However, my guess is that in season these tiny villages could become a zoo.

We stopped looking for a tablecloth and found something we liked. But it was not in the right shape or size. Oh well, next trip.

Outside one store was an old copper distiller for making perfume.

While taking the picture, the smell of lavender was extremely strong and when we peaked next store the origins of the smell were easy to find.

Bunches and Bunches of lavender ready to be pressed for the oil and eventually some stinky liquid or soap.

Because of the higher elevation, the views were now even more spectacular!

Gourdon, like the other villages, is very old but has been modernized to accommodate locals and visitors. When one walks around you get the feel someone really lives here.

At last it was lunch time! Sitting outside with a view that is hard to match anywhere we enjoyed our lunch accompanied by a wonderful Vacqueyras. Richard, Tom, and Mathilde all went with a Wild Boar and Pasta dish, while Sally went with Truffles and Pasta, and Janet stuffed Ravioli.

It is hard to believe with 3 Cameras and 4 phones not one picture was snapped of our tasty meal. Sorry foodies - trust us it was good!

From Gourdon to Grasse it was all downhill. We stopped to snap a shot of this beautiful village in the sky.

Grasse is the world's capital of the perfume industry, and our next stop would be the Fragonard Parfumeur.

It had been a long day, and though no one said it, we were ready to head back to our apartment and get off our feet. Mathilde brought us into the reception speaking briefly to the lady at the desk and voilà – Charlotte, an ebullient Brit, was there to take us on a private tour of the factory.

The tour was fascinating and very educational. The process of making perfume is much like making a good whiskey. Granted, the smells are a lot more intense!

All in all, we were so happy we got to experience Fragonard.

Tom did cut outside when the tour ended at the shop - Just way too many smells and fresh air was in order.

On the way back to Nice from Grasse, the van was quiet. Everyone was tired but did not want this amazing day to end. We concluded that private tours are more expensive but are so worth it in the long run! Mathilde was amazing and we hope our paths cross again. We would recommend Tour by Locals to any of our traveling friends as a valid option to consider when planning an excursion.

We said our goodbyes and Mathilde had slipped us a list of her favorite eating establishments near our apartment.

We did not linger long in the apartment before we headed out to the Promenade to do something we had not done all day - Take a walk… and find something to eat. After just a few steps we decided to pull up at Le Negresco bar for a celebratory cocktail. A block and half stroll was just what we needed for a warm down walk.

We raised our glasses to a wonderful day, a great guide, and friendship as we experienced the good life. It should be noted that the good life for the cost of the four cocktails was more than our dinner that followed.

The group had enjoyed such a nice lunch in Gourdon, we chose very simple for dinner. Sitting outside near the market we chatted about the day, but it was late, and we were exhausted. Tomorrow brings another adventure and sleep was required for these weary explorers.